Katsuno Restaurant

If you're a regular at Midtown's Restaurant Seo, you might be wondering where Chef Katsuyuki Seo is. It turns out that his fans out in Forest Hills are borrowing him for a little while. Seo, who just opened Katsuno in the former Ran space on Metropolitan Avenue, is arranging lovely plates at the sushi bar while his kitchen turns out specialties like grilled miso-marinated beef, steamed Asari clams, eel with cucumber vinaigrette, and those noodles everyone has come to love at Seo's original restaurant.

There are eight tables in the front of Katsuno (seven of which were full tonight), and two semi-private tables in back. Tonight, people around me were indulging in oshitashi, sea urchin sashimi, and chawan mushi. To start, I ordered a bowl of miso soup (the menu features both red and white versions) with seaweed, scallions and nice big chunks of tofu. My next course was three half-moons of sweet stewed pumpkin in a light dashi. The hearty orange vegetable was sprinkled with bits of yuzu zest.

My main course was a generous portion of grilled miso-marinated cod, its skin lightly charred. A dab of sweet white miso sauce complemented the rich fish, which was served with a big bowl of rice. (Next to me, a couple consumed a plate of rare sliced beef with daikon and citrus ponzu sauce.) Although I was tempted by the sushi menu ("Please ask for today's imported fresh fish from Japan," it said), I had no more room... maybe I'll go back tomorrow.

If you want to try out Katsuno for yourself, you might want to visit on Saturday, Dec. 20 from 5-7 p.m., when the restaurant is throwing a "grand opening party." You'll be able to eat all you want for $25! The menu will include cold soba, grilled chicken in lemon sauce, shrimp tempura salad, and sushi, among other dishes. Bring your own wine and beer - Katsuno expects to receive its liquor license in the next few months.

Katsuno Restaurant: 103-01 Metropolitan Ave., Forest Hills, (718) 575-4033.